THE PARIS YOU WON'T FIND ON THE MAJOR BOULEVARDS
Our street lives up to its name: a quiet, unspoiled side street, while just 200 meters away, the Gare de Lyon bustles with its major races. This is where eastern Paris begins—the part Parisians keep to themselves, far from the postcard-perfect landmarks, nestled between marché d'Aligre, Bastille , and the cobblestone alleys of Oberkampf. Our team knows the hidden gems—the ones you won’t find on the grand boulevards. Here are a few, gathered from our visits and from the locals.
Next door, rue Traversière
Just a few doors down from the Maison, Giovanni Passerini’s Italian restaurant (Best Chef 2017) delights regulars with fresh pasta and Roman-style tripe. Right next door, his shop sells the same pasta to take home, so you can cook just like him.
Pastificio Passerini
65 rue Traversière, 75012 — Ledru-Rollin metro station
A record store unlike any other, right on our sidewalk: vinyl records, cassette tapes, and a few bottles of natural wine tucked among the bins. Christophe runs the shop as a neighbor, not as a merchant—you go in for a record, and you come out with a bottle.
The Sound Tank
56 rue Traversière, 75012 — Ledru-Rollin metro station
Around the marché d'Aligre
A wine bar just two minutes from the Gare de Lyon —the perfect spot for a nightcap before catching the train, or a welcome drink upon arrival. A wide selection of natural wines and a concise, well-curated lunch menu.
Watch Out for the Wines
26 Boulevard Diderot, 75012 — 2 min from Gare de Lyon
Nous4 | Bistronomic Cuisine
A gourmet spot just a stone's throw from the " marché d'Aligre." Chef Stéphane Browne (Gault&Millau Young Talent 2017) cooks without pretension, drawing inspiration from the market—the menu changes daily.
26 Boulevard Diderot, 75012 — 2 min from Gare de Lyon
The Balloon Whistler
A neighborhood institution in Aligre, part wine shop, part gourmet deli: you pick out a bottle from the shelves and enjoy it right there with a charcuterie platter or a jar of sardines. Simple and generous.
34 rue de Cîteaux, 75012 — Faidherbe-Chaligny metro station
An old-fashioned bistro with exposed beams and patterned tile floors, where Guillaume and Émilie serve up authentic, seasonal cuisine paired with a lovely wine list. The name suits them well: this is where they found each other.
Dates
67 rue de Charenton, 75012
Around the 11th, a detour
Creative bistronomic cuisine by Pierre Rieder (formerly of Pierre Sang), with subtle Asian influences. An unpretentious gem in the 11th arrondissement, where you dine at the counter facing the open kitchen.
Clutch
62 rue de Montreuil, 75011
Comets Café & Records
A café and record store in the Charonne neighborhood: great specialty coffee, homemade pastries, and vinyl records handpicked by the owner. It’s easy to end up staying longer than you planned.
38 Léon Frot Street, 75011 — Charonne Metro Station
A neighborhood grocery store sourcing directly from producers—vegetables, fruits, cheeses, and cured meats from small French farms. The spirit of the market, brought to your local store.
The Zingam
75 Chemin Vert Street, 75011